Switzerland, Prague, Salzburg and Lake Como

The fully loaded Renault Kangoo, all 85 horsepower, is an able performer even in the Swiss Alps. Only operator error will result in a diesel-induced wheeze up a steep grade if the correct gear is not selected. There are no dramatic belches of black smoke of the old diesels, just a distinct lack of power until it sorts itself out. I apologized in Italian to my French car and my Canadian wife for my mistakes, hoping they will understand and be more forgiving if I do it again.

While I’m on the subject of lack of power and wheezing, Leslie picked up a cold in Davos, Switzerland. We sneezed, wheezed and dribbled our way towards Prague, Czech Republic and then on to Salzburg, Austria. Prague is a bustling modern city trapped in a museum of architecture haunted by Kafka and many other artists. It’s difficult to believe it was only the late 60’s that the USSR invaded Czechoslovakia because of its modest attempts at liberalization. There is a painted outline at the spot where a student (Jan Palach) died after lighting himself on fire as a desperate protest to the Soviet occupation; he is considered a national hero. Many students, artists, intellectuals and workers protests were quickly put down. The contrast with my life as a Canadian student in 1969 couldn’t have been more extreme.

Old areas in European cities are like theatrical history; open to the tourist audiences during the day but daily life goes on elsewhere. Prague’s architectural beauty is so extensive that the city stages life as a never ending play. The buildings, streets and squares ooze history and breathe the bustle of modern consumerism. The Frank Gehry designed building is a wonderful contrast to classic structures of Prague. It is referred to as the “dancing building” which will be self explanatory once you see it. It has been called other things as well, according to your taste.

For an unbelievable example of Art Nouveau style architecture, Prague’s Municipal Hall must be seen. A tour is essential to appreciate the design, craftsmanship and pride in community required to propel a project of this scope. It also reflects one of the many resurgences of Czech culture and economics before the 20th century took hold.

Salzburg’s claim to fame, according to Austrians, is as Mozart’s birthplace. On the other hand, a recent survey stated most tourists came because of the association with the movie “The Sound of Music”. The locals are stubbornly sticking to the sophisticated Mozart version of events.

The old town of Salzburg is one of the focuses of tourism, capped by yet another castle. The history of the area is unique, characterized by salt mining which resulted in considerable wealth. The wealth, in turn, attracts “bad guys” which, in turn, necessitates big castles, torture chambers and the weapons of war. The castle has a tremendous collection of antiquities, including torture devices and a study in the development of ancient weapons. The instruments of pain are juxtaposed with works of art, further illustrating the complexities of the human race, which is capable of creating stunningly beautiful works of art and science; at that same time perpetrating atrocities that leave you speechless. Although I just glanced at the combination finger and testicle squeezer on display, I released an endless stream of confessions to Leslie, some of which I regret. I would not have held up well to torture.

Salzburg is the only city in Europe that we have been in where they continue to allow smoking inside restaurants. We forgot what it was like trying to have a meal while the thick smoke hung like smog over an Ohio coal town. At one meal, exhaust from laughing Austrian smokers would escalate uncontrollably into a cacophony of bronchitic spasms, only to be joined in sympathy by Leslie in the last throes of her virus. The Austrian group seemed pleased with Leslie’s sense of humour when she involuntarily joined in.

Mozart was born in Salzburg and it is my understanding that he made some wonderful noises. We had hoped to hear a performance of his work while in Salzburg but that will have to be saved for another time. Instead, Leslie was inspired to sing a constant melody of “The Sound of Music” tunes. It was a wonderful performance although the lack of rehearsal time was apparent.

The fall weather had become chilly as Salzburg is an alpine town. We hunkered down in the Sheraton Salzburg as a treat and respite from the cold. Our king size bed had three pillows, each of varying sizes and densities. To me, this meant there must be a resident pillow sommelier. But Leslie tried to tell me there is no such thing and not to bother phoning the front desk to enquire for pillow advice. However, I did enjoy some of the local food in the hotel including goulash, bratwurst, potato pancakes with a fruity dry Austrian wine, great comfort food.

Actually, our first premonition of winter was in Davos, Switzerland, an alpine town famous for skiing, hiking and economic conferences. We stayed there courtesy of the Kaelin family of Neschwil, Switzerland, friends I met originally in Vancouver. Switzerland lived up to its reputation of beauty, manicured lush green valleys and towering alpine mountains.

Neschwil is a small village where Barbara Sporri Kaelin grew up and the family now live. Neschwil lies in rolling green Swiss countryside with great access to biking, hiking and skiing. We spent a special week with them and met their children, Oliver and Sara and her mom, Hilde. Barbara took us to Zurich one evening and we were really impressed. The downtown has no towering high-rises and is built to a very human scale. I can’t believe the Zurich gnomes (bankers) have resisted or been prevented from building huge symbols to their success. There were lots of outdoor restaurants and cafes full of locals enjoying the older area of Zurich.

Markus Kaelin took us on a spectacular hike high into the Swiss Alps. Sections of the hike had fixed metal assists to lend confidence as the exposure was intimidating. The Italians refer to this as via ferrata (iron way or road) which allows non-technical climbers access to areas they might not otherwise go. On the descent, we rounded a tight bend in the trail and were immediately confronted by about eight ibex. Markus, who has been hiking and climbing in the Alps for years, had never been so close.

Switzerland has none of the signature scruffiness of Italy, France or Spain. People apologize for not speaking English and then launch into an easily understood conversation. The cut wood is piled neatly as if by a government directive, roads are in excellent condition and everyone dutifully turns their car off at construction delays or long red lights. Why they would want to join the European Union, I don’t know. It may be to ease trading restrictions and lower high consumer prices. They seem to have the best of both worlds, proximity to multiple hard scrabble countries with a reassuring comfort and order in their own living room.

With the Kangoo and Leslie spluttering, and me blethering in nonsensical faux Italian-Swiss, we headed towards a rendezvous with Leslie’s parents in Lecco, Lake Como region. In one day, we drove through five countries; Switzerland, Austria, and Lichtenstein, Czech Republic and Germany. The order that we did it in is lost forever. On the final descent from St. Moritz towards Lake Como, we were engulfed in a beautiful valley which highlighted the trip.

Leslie and I had booked an apartment in Varenna, about twenty minutes north of Lecco on Lake Como’s eastern side. We weren’t sure when or if we’d be able to meet up with Don and Joyce so we made a last minute booking. When you book blindly on the internet, it is always a leap of faith that there will be four walls, a roof, a door and at least one window. Serendipity struck again. The apartment in Varenna, owned by a local Italian couple, had much more than the requisite walls and roof. The owners spoke no English but were very enthusiastic in helping us settle in and explore.

With Leslie’s parents in Lecco and us in Varenna, this also provided the opportunity to explore both places. Lecco is a small prosperous town filled with the typically stylish Italians, both locals and weekenders from Milan. Varenna, much smaller still and lakeside, had only one way to expand and that was up. We had a tiny switchback road as an approach to our apartment with its large deck and a view over the lake.

It was a real treat seeing my in-laws out of context. Even though we had planned to meet them, you still pinch yourself and ask “How did they get here and how did this happen?” Joyce and Don celebrated their 49th wedding anniversary which we all spent on a beautiful, warm, sunny Varenna restaurant deck overlooking Lake Como. It was one of those meals you don’t want to end, great views, easy conversation and, of course, wine. After lunch, we parted ways, Don and Joyce went off to their place in Lecco, easing into their 50th year of marriage. We met and did it all over again in Bellagio and Lecco with nothing in particular to celebrate other than it was lunchtime again in Lake Como.